In the early 1960’s, Seiko debuted its first truly submersible sports watch in the form of the Seikomatic 50m J12082 SilverWave – like this serviced 1961 Seiko J12082 SilverWave automatic here, the seldom seen starburst dial variant – with an internal countdown bezel.
The introduction of the SilverWave watch in 1961 marked a number of firsts for Seiko: it represented their first diver’s watch, first watch with an inner rotating bezel, first use of the tsunami wave symbol on the caseback, and first automatic watch with a screw-down case back. For a brand that’s arguably better known for its divers than any other class of watch, their first diver makes the J12082 reference significant - there also exists limited evidence United States Special Forces officers preferred it, as well.
Throughout its relatively brief production run from 1961 to 1964, the original SilverWave was offered with a variety of dials. Black dials, white/silver dials, dials with a unique set of sunburst lines (like the one here, referred to as Mark 1’s), different color internal bezels, and font changes highlight some of the variants the storied Japanese company produced.
Per Fratello’s resident Seiko guru Michael Stockton, “I’d contend that the Seiko SilverWave J12082 – like several other early attempts at divers by Japanese brands that I’ve reviewed – is about as good as it gets when it comes to wearing a watch…it contains little that’s superfluous, it’s light, functional, relatively practical, and there’s a link to Japan. To me, that makes it nearly perfect.”
This Seiko J12082 Silverwave starburst comes on a premium Strap Geeks leather strap, and with nylon strap, rugged travel case, and springbar tool.
1961 Seiko J12082 Silver Wave Starburst Dial Automatic, Seiko's First Dive Watch
DIAL: Silver SilverWave-signed dial, with correct dauphin hands - lume fades quickly. Dial has a spectacular "starburst" design, with applied silver markers with lumed rectangles at the inside edge at each; lume fades quickly given age. Black inner tachmeyer ring evinces no wear, and does not rotate.
CASE: Stainless-steel case measures 37mm x 44mm, with matching caseback etched with Seiko's famous Tsunami motif. The caseback is an atypical two-piece design.
CRYSTAL: Correct steep-domed acrylic crystal, no cracks.
BAND: This SilverWave comes on a premium brown Strap Geeks leather strap; it also comes with a black, white, and red nylon strap.
MOVEMENT: Seikosha Seikomatic 603 calibre automatic movement, with 20 jewels and 18,000 bph frequency; watch serial (on inside of caseback) dates watch production to November 1961. Later renamed the 6201, it’s the basis of all 62xx movements used in legendary vintage Seiko watches - such as the 62MAS and early 6215 300 meter diver. This watch has been fully serviced.
CROWN: Unsigned stainless-steel crown.