Citizen launched the rather unique vertical-clutch column wheel 8110 chronograph in 1972 - like the full-serviced gold 1981 Citizen Challenge Timer Ref. 67-9020 "Cliff Booth" bullhead chronograph here, on a leather cuff band akin to that worn by Brad Pitt and with its original gold Citizen bracelet - as a direct challenge to Seiko's legendary 6139 automatic chronograph. Years later, Brad Pitt's character, Cliff Booth, in Quentin Tarantino's "Once Upon A Time...in Hollywood," would wear one identical to the example here throughout the movie, on a leather bund strap.
Per Tarantino, Cliff was a war hero — he’s a WWII vet who served in both the European (after all, Pitt stared in 2014's Fury) and Pacific theaters and won two Medals of Valor. He briefly considered becoming a pimp in Paris after the war, but instead became a stuntman, and later a “ringer” — a substitute stuntman you could pay to “accidentally” hit movie stars on set. He also loves Akira Kurosawa films (his favorites are 1952's "Ikiru" and 1954's "Seven Samurai"), which may explain Booth rocking the Citizen bullhead. We did a research deep dive into the real-life stunt men that were most likely Tarantino's Cliff Booth - find it here.
As noted, Citizen's 8110 movement was the Japanese company's answer to Seiko’s famed 6139 movement, with one key difference - Citizen’s well-designed 8110, unlike the 6139, featured hand winding and a ‘flyback’ complication, which allows the wearer to zero the chronograph whilst running, rather than having to stop it first, then restart, permitting the instant stop and re-start of the chronograph function.
The compact design of the movement in the 1970's 'flyback' Citizen 8110 "Challenge Timer" automatic bullhead chronograph allowed smaller casing, rendering the 8110 lighter than the Seiko 6139 (which did not have a flyback feature) and other automatic chronographs of the period. The 8110 is also a far more compact version of the Seiko’s own bullhead design, the 6138-004X.
All Citizen 8110 models have the column wheel/vertical clutch design, with quick setting mechanisms for date and day. Both are set when the crown is pulled out one click – the date by rotating the crown, the day by pressing the reset button.
Compared to modern chronographs, the only chronos in the contemporary watch market with similar features and construction sell at a far higher price point – such as Blancpain, Vacheron Constantine, Patek, and Audemars. Citizen 8110’s are the least expensive, yet most sophisticated chronograph ever made.
Not that Citizen hasn't tried to re-create the magic of these diminutive bullhead chronographs - in mid-2024, it made an attempt with the large - and garish, in our opinion - Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer Super Titanium, with a quartz movement and no flyback complication.
But the attempt didn't work, in our opinion - and Gear Patrol wasn't entirely won over, either: "If Citizen were to make such a watch that also brought back the simpler styling and smaller sizing of the original Bullhead, then a significant portion of the enthusiast community — present company included —would go bananas." As usual, vintage OG is the way to go - why fix something that isn't broken?
This gold Citizen Cliff Booth bullhead comes on a leather cuff strap, and with its original gold Citizen bracelet, nylon strap, spring bar tool, and rugged travel case.
Gold 1981 Citizen Ref. 67-9020 "Cliff Booth" Challenge Timer Bullhead Chrono
DIAL: Gold Citizen dial with matching gold minute and hour hands, as well as light orange chronograph hands.
CASE: Gold-plated nickel Citizen 38mm x 44mm (with crown) case, with stainless steel caseback - light wear is present on the gold-plated case and chrono pushers (but nothing egregious), quite common for these. The case features hooded lugs.
CRYSTAL: Scratch and blemish-free.
STRAP: This Cliff Booth chronograph comes on a quality brown leather cuff strap; this bullhead also comes with its original gold Citizen bracelet, which will fit up to an approx. 7.75 inch wrist, and a black 18mm nlyon strap.
MOVEMENT: Citizen 23-jewel automatic movement, beating at a rapid 28,800 bph. The 8110 flyback tachymeter movement can be wound either manually or automatically. Like most 8110's, care must be taken not to pull too hard on the crown. Separately, the date and day - with Spanish/English calendar variants – rotate and set as designed. Serial number on caseback dates this watch to a January 1978 manufacture. We have performed a full service on this Citizen Cliff Booth chronograph.
CROWN: Gold Citizen-signed crown.
CHRONOGRAPH PUSHERS: Chronograph pushers depress with satisfying click, no stick. Chronograph hands snap back and reset to zero with no issue.